Thursday, June 10, 2021
I kept my phone in my sleeping bag overnight so I could take this picture at dawn.
I kept my phone in my sleeping bag overnight so I could take this picture at dawn.
After I'd finished the last of my oatmeal and every other edible in my larder except a couple tubes of instant coffee, Larry helped me pin down the day's destination.
Years ago Larry and Jana and I had stayed in Paonia, and I queried him via text which hotel we'd stayed in. It shook out Paonia seemed to have been hit hard by the pandemic, and choices were now limited.
I shifted my focus farther west to Grand Mesa, where I'd stayed on my 2014 tour; the Goldenwood condos at Powderhorn Ski Resort had plenty of vacancies and after two days and nights in a dry camp, I liked the idea of a room with plenty of water features including a hot tub. I also recalled spectacular views from the escarpments of the mesa, and a delightful ride across the mesa itself.
It would make today's ride much longer, and involve a boring drone through the valley south of the mesa, which is invariably uncomfortable in the heat of the afternoon. But by the same token it would put me right on top of the northern end of CO-141. This would be a big advantage, as I wanted to ride as much of CO-141 as possible during the cool of the morning.
Destination known.
Years ago Larry and Jana and I had stayed in Paonia, and I queried him via text which hotel we'd stayed in. It shook out Paonia seemed to have been hit hard by the pandemic, and choices were now limited.
I shifted my focus farther west to Grand Mesa, where I'd stayed on my 2014 tour; the Goldenwood condos at Powderhorn Ski Resort had plenty of vacancies and after two days and nights in a dry camp, I liked the idea of a room with plenty of water features including a hot tub. I also recalled spectacular views from the escarpments of the mesa, and a delightful ride across the mesa itself.
It would make today's ride much longer, and involve a boring drone through the valley south of the mesa, which is invariably uncomfortable in the heat of the afternoon. But by the same token it would put me right on top of the northern end of CO-141. This would be a big advantage, as I wanted to ride as much of CO-141 as possible during the cool of the morning.
Destination known.
I packed up and headed out, incentivized as much by the damned generator noise as my desire to ride, or to get anywhere.
I had Independence Pass virtually to myself, which was a slight improvement over the day before, when I'd encountered occasional traffic.
Well down the western slope I stopped under a picturesque cliff to clean my faceshield and swap out a GoPro battery.
I had Independence Pass virtually to myself, which was a slight improvement over the day before, when I'd encountered occasional traffic.
Well down the western slope I stopped under a picturesque cliff to clean my faceshield and swap out a GoPro battery.
The picture above was taken after a guy driving an old Suburban had pulled away. He and his daughter were on their way back to Georgia from California. He'd wanted to do the trip on his KLR650 dual-sport motorcycle, but when his daughter became part of the plan, so did the Suburban. He said the thing was heavily loaded and was having trouble on the grade -- I warned him that what lay ahead would be much more severe.
I arrived at Bangkok Happy Bowl minutes after it opened, indulged my habit, then worked my way out of town. I avoided the main drag by driving along Smuggler Street, which became Power Plant Road and dove into the gulch of Castle Creek via an interesting set of curves before leading inexorably to CO-82 and the way out of town.
I hadn't been looking forward to this stretch, and it was as tedious as ever.
With a sigh of relief I turned left on to CO-133 and after a quick pass through Carbondale was able to wind Therese out on a much more pleasant road, heading into the mountains along the banks of the Crystal River.
I arrived at Bangkok Happy Bowl minutes after it opened, indulged my habit, then worked my way out of town. I avoided the main drag by driving along Smuggler Street, which became Power Plant Road and dove into the gulch of Castle Creek via an interesting set of curves before leading inexorably to CO-82 and the way out of town.
I hadn't been looking forward to this stretch, and it was as tedious as ever.
With a sigh of relief I turned left on to CO-133 and after a quick pass through Carbondale was able to wind Therese out on a much more pleasant road, heading into the mountains along the banks of the Crystal River.
Signs warned of construction ahead.
Buzzkill.
Worse was when I came up on the programmable sign claiming up to 30 minute delays.
When I came to stopped traffic I decided this was exactly the place I'd been looking for to get off the bike, peel off the protective gear, and play in the river.
Buzzkill.
Worse was when I came up on the programmable sign claiming up to 30 minute delays.
When I came to stopped traffic I decided this was exactly the place I'd been looking for to get off the bike, peel off the protective gear, and play in the river.
After a very refreshing respite I climbed back up to the road with the intent of figuring out the cadence of traffic through the single lane construction zone. The idea was to know exactly when to put on the gear and roll up to the flagman to achieve minimum wait time.
The interval was 2 minutes.
After that the ride up and over McClure Pass was exactly as it should have been.
Yadda yadda.
The interval was 2 minutes.
After that the ride up and over McClure Pass was exactly as it should have been.
Yadda yadda.
The gas stop in Paonia was uncomfortably warm for someone wearing full protective gear.
It didn't get cooler as I went down into the valley and rode west and south toward Delta, or even when I turned back north toward Grand Mesa, but at least I was able to keep moving.
It didn't get cooler as I went down into the valley and rode west and south toward Delta, or even when I turned back north toward Grand Mesa, but at least I was able to keep moving.
Finally, up on the mesa.
The temperature was back to pleasantly cool and the views were yadda yadda.
The temperature was back to pleasantly cool and the views were yadda yadda.
An empty winding road beneath a pure blue sky whose beauty and brilliance paled in comparison to that of the lakes.
I knew from experience, not from Google-fu, that the Mesa Lakes Lodge was my last chance for dinner. I enjoyed a bowl of chili and, after inquiring of the local beer selection, a High Desert Red from Palisade Brewing Company.
Unfortunately they wouldn't open for breakfast until far later than I could afford, given my plans to hit CO-141 as early as possible the next morning.
But the bartender was happy to sell me a big foil-wrapped breakfast burrito I'd be able to nuke in the condo's microwave.
The view from the northern escarpment wasn't as good as it might have been. Clearly forest fires were burning somewhere, and the haze obscured much of what otherwise would have been a seriously Grand Canyon-esque view.
But the bartender was happy to sell me a big foil-wrapped breakfast burrito I'd be able to nuke in the condo's microwave.
The view from the northern escarpment wasn't as good as it might have been. Clearly forest fires were burning somewhere, and the haze obscured much of what otherwise would have been a seriously Grand Canyon-esque view.
I arrived at the condo after-hours. The leasing office was closed, but the key to 5A was in the lockbox as promised.
Electronic things got plugged into outlets.
The laundry equipment was noisy and low capacity, but I sure did need it.
The hot tub was just the thing.
Electronic things got plugged into outlets.
The laundry equipment was noisy and low capacity, but I sure did need it.
The hot tub was just the thing.
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