Monday, June 7, 2021
Great motorcycle, perfect Colorado day, no traffic to speak of, yadda yadda.
Great motorcycle, perfect Colorado day, no traffic to speak of, yadda yadda.
I rode up and over Monarch Pass, refueled at the Shell station in Salida, then rolled a few feet further to the Thai Mini Café.
I think mama-san might have recognized me, vaguely.
This was really my most important destination of the day, but since I couldn’t sleep there I’d need to move on.
This was really my most important destination of the day, but since I couldn’t sleep there I’d need to move on.
The Delaware Hotel in Leadville had long been on my mind. My then-Plex coworker Andrew “Frecks” Freckelton and his new bride Katie had stayed there and greatly enjoyed its historic and reputedly haunted atmosphere during their honeymoon motorcycle tour of Colorado in September of 2018.
The winter before Frecks had asked if I could give him any hints for such a trip, which he intended to take the following summer.
“Happy to”, I’d replied. “First, you don’t want to do it in the summer. Spring or fall will be far better.”
Spring was too soon. It would have to be fall.
"I'll give it some more thought", I told him.
I couldn't help but spend most of the following weekend pondering where I would go had I four weeks to do nothing but ride around Colorado.
The next Monday I handed him a detailed but highly flexible itinerary with numerous alternatives and fall-back options, crafted with the season in mind (e.g., would Milner Pass be open? What if it wasn’t?).
The winter before Frecks had asked if I could give him any hints for such a trip, which he intended to take the following summer.
“Happy to”, I’d replied. “First, you don’t want to do it in the summer. Spring or fall will be far better.”
Spring was too soon. It would have to be fall.
"I'll give it some more thought", I told him.
I couldn't help but spend most of the following weekend pondering where I would go had I four weeks to do nothing but ride around Colorado.
The next Monday I handed him a detailed but highly flexible itinerary with numerous alternatives and fall-back options, crafted with the season in mind (e.g., would Milner Pass be open? What if it wasn’t?).
The Honeymoon Tour
I also gave consideration to the fact that while Frecks was a skilled and experienced rider who’d be riding the same highly-capable Yamaha FJR1300 he’d ridden to Alaska and back, Katie was less experienced and would be riding a brand new (i.e., unfamiliar) Indian Scout.
I wanted to be certain the suggestions I made (in a lengthy document and accompanying spreadsheet) would result in the maximum possible comfort and enjoyment for Katie. Thinking of how often I'd subjected my own wife to exactly the opposite, I drafted a set of dictums of which #1 was, “Don’t make her ride across the plains. There might come a day when she’ll want to check that box for herself, but don’t make it this trip. Put the bikes on a trailer, park it in Fort Collins, and ride from there. If after touring Colorado she really wants to ride the rest of the way home – well, that will be her choice, and an informed one.”
Andrew and Katie ended up following my suggested itinerary nearly to the letter, and had a great time. The riding weather was almost universally fine, there were few complications or episodes of adversity, and I got to ride vicariously through him, following his Facebook posts. After the first few days I had the delight of knowing, for the remainder of the trip, where the happy couple was about to venture next.
The Delaware Hotel wasn’t a specific recommendation I made, but I think I suggested the possibility of finding someplace like what it turned out to be.
Today it was my turn to follow Frecks’ lead.
I wanted to be certain the suggestions I made (in a lengthy document and accompanying spreadsheet) would result in the maximum possible comfort and enjoyment for Katie. Thinking of how often I'd subjected my own wife to exactly the opposite, I drafted a set of dictums of which #1 was, “Don’t make her ride across the plains. There might come a day when she’ll want to check that box for herself, but don’t make it this trip. Put the bikes on a trailer, park it in Fort Collins, and ride from there. If after touring Colorado she really wants to ride the rest of the way home – well, that will be her choice, and an informed one.”
Andrew and Katie ended up following my suggested itinerary nearly to the letter, and had a great time. The riding weather was almost universally fine, there were few complications or episodes of adversity, and I got to ride vicariously through him, following his Facebook posts. After the first few days I had the delight of knowing, for the remainder of the trip, where the happy couple was about to venture next.
The Delaware Hotel wasn’t a specific recommendation I made, but I think I suggested the possibility of finding someplace like what it turned out to be.
Today it was my turn to follow Frecks’ lead.
The stairs and floorboards were just as creaky as I’d been led to expect.
Groovy.
Groovy.
The second floor was dark and gloomy and filled with an odd collection of armoires and antique cabinets and pictures with eyes that follow you as you pass.
Spook central.
Spook central.
I’d been assigned Room 13.
Perfect.
Perfect.
I'd made a reservation for the smallest available room, both in the interest of cost and because I wanted the experience of such a room.
The tiny, oddly shaped space was bigger than I'd expected, and even equipped with a private toilet and shower.
Good to know I wouldn’t need to share the WC in the hall, which is something I thought a real possibility!
The tiny, oddly shaped space was bigger than I'd expected, and even equipped with a private toilet and shower.
Good to know I wouldn’t need to share the WC in the hall, which is something I thought a real possibility!
I strolled through Leadville enjoying frequent views, when seen over or between the buildings on the south side of the street, of the spectacular snow-capped range of peaks I’d spent the afternoon riding past. Once again brooding clouds roiled and churned overhead.
I hoped there'd be a great storm overnight to further enhance the effect of The Delaware's alleged haunts.
I hoped there'd be a great storm overnight to further enhance the effect of The Delaware's alleged haunts.
I snuck in before a surprisingly early last call to down a couple Camp Hale Pale Ales and a snack at the 2 Mile brew pub.
Heading back north, at Casa Sanchez I couldn’t finish a big pile of chile rellenos, rice, and beans. I did finish the Dos Equis Ambar.
I staggered back to the hotel and fell into bed.
Slept comfortably but irregularly.
Had a lot of odd dreams, but didn’t hear or see anything that struck me as “ghostly”.
I staggered back to the hotel and fell into bed.
Slept comfortably but irregularly.
Had a lot of odd dreams, but didn’t hear or see anything that struck me as “ghostly”.
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